Difference between revisions of "Projects:Badge/Documentation/Troubleshooting Hardware"
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| − | + | Before you attempt any hardware diagnosis, try erasing and updating the firmware! | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ==Display== | |
| + | ===Sluggish=== | ||
When a display responds sluggish (more than on other badges) or is for instance unable to clear the display in one pass, check the soldering on the display connector first. | When a display responds sluggish (more than on other badges) or is for instance unable to clear the display in one pass, check the soldering on the display connector first. | ||
| − | + | ===Ghosting=== | |
When you update the display too frequently without proper clearing cycles (inverted image, black screen, white screen, positive image) you may experience something that looks like it was burned in. You can recover your screen by doing the black and white flashes (LOTS of them). Also letting the display rest (without power!) seems to alleviate the issue. So expect ghosting/burn-in when you are doing animations. We do not know the long term effect of (ab)using the display like this. | When you update the display too frequently without proper clearing cycles (inverted image, black screen, white screen, positive image) you may experience something that looks like it was burned in. You can recover your screen by doing the black and white flashes (LOTS of them). Also letting the display rest (without power!) seems to alleviate the issue. So expect ghosting/burn-in when you are doing animations. We do not know the long term effect of (ab)using the display like this. | ||
| − | + | ===Removing=== | |
Removing the display is not something we recommend. Break it at your own risk. The trick seems to be to first remove the cable from the connector on the back, pull it through the hole. Now you can carefully push and wiggle the display downward towards the buttons. If you're lucky the glue-dots havent hardened yet and you can remove the display. Come by the badge tent for new gluedots when you're done (limited supplies). | Removing the display is not something we recommend. Break it at your own risk. The trick seems to be to first remove the cable from the connector on the back, pull it through the hole. Now you can carefully push and wiggle the display downward towards the buttons. If you're lucky the glue-dots havent hardened yet and you can remove the display. Come by the badge tent for new gluedots when you're done (limited supplies). | ||
| − | + | ==MPR121== | |
| − | + | ===Touch not working=== | |
Check the soldering on the MP121. Reflow if necessary. | Check the soldering on the MP121. Reflow if necessary. | ||
| − | + | ===LED power not working=== | |
If your LEDs aren't getting any power either the MPR121 or the transistor is suspect. | If your LEDs aren't getting any power either the MPR121 or the transistor is suspect. | ||
| − | + | ===Buzzer motor not working=== | |
Either the MPR121 or the transistor are suspect | Either the MPR121 or the transistor are suspect | ||
Revision as of 01:57, 18 June 2017
Before you attempt any hardware diagnosis, try erasing and updating the firmware!
Contents
Display
Sluggish
When a display responds sluggish (more than on other badges) or is for instance unable to clear the display in one pass, check the soldering on the display connector first.
Ghosting
When you update the display too frequently without proper clearing cycles (inverted image, black screen, white screen, positive image) you may experience something that looks like it was burned in. You can recover your screen by doing the black and white flashes (LOTS of them). Also letting the display rest (without power!) seems to alleviate the issue. So expect ghosting/burn-in when you are doing animations. We do not know the long term effect of (ab)using the display like this.
Removing
Removing the display is not something we recommend. Break it at your own risk. The trick seems to be to first remove the cable from the connector on the back, pull it through the hole. Now you can carefully push and wiggle the display downward towards the buttons. If you're lucky the glue-dots havent hardened yet and you can remove the display. Come by the badge tent for new gluedots when you're done (limited supplies).
MPR121
Touch not working
Check the soldering on the MP121. Reflow if necessary.
LED power not working
If your LEDs aren't getting any power either the MPR121 or the transistor is suspect.
Buzzer motor not working
Either the MPR121 or the transistor are suspect
